The Streets of Philadelphia

Unlike the lyrics to the sad Springsteen song, today's "streets of Philadelphia" were an energy booster.  The warm weather and leaves crunching underfoot in the Old City section made the day feel light and uplifting. I've been in Old City many times but I stumbled upon things I had never seen and was amazed that I hadn't. I also revisited old favorites.

Today started with brunch at Stephen Starr's Jones.  This restaurant has been around for several years now but it was my first visit to this "Brady Brunch-esque" restaurant.  The shag carpet, 70's avocado green, and sunken living room feel evoke Mike Brady himself coming through the front door and saying "hi" to Carol after a day at the office.  We ate at the counter even though the wait was only about 10 minutes. We each had eggs.  The coffee and food were good.  I wouldn't mind coming back to try the classic meatloaf.  This, along with the mac and cheese, fits Jones' desire to provide comfort foods in a retro setting.  (Which also explains why my omelet came with tater tots instead of hash browns or home fries!)

With no particular destination in mind, my friend and I wandered down to Old City from our 7th and Chestnut brunch.  Vice President Joe Biden, PA's Governor Ed Rendell and some local politicians were speaking outside near Independence Hall.  They were gathered to make comments about the soon-to-be opened National Museum of Jewish History.  I'm not sure who drew more attention - the speakers or the hoards of Secret Service men and women, Philadelphia police, and SWAT teams on the roofs.

We walked deeper into Old City and ducked into vintage clothing stores and a store that sold wonderful African fabrics and statues.  The owner of the latter store was personable and funny.  She explained she couldn't make the purchases of the items in the store when she travelled to Africa because the men wouldn't do business with her.  Wisely, they said it was too distracting to do business with women and they would likely give in and therefore make less money.  They're certainly honest!

We spotted several interesting expressions of...well, I'm not exactly sure what.  We'll call these expressions of self.  For example, we saw that someone embedded something into the intersection.  (I'm a sucker for street art, even if I don't understand it.)  We passed a shop on 3rd Street where the owner of the store knit a sweater for the tree outside the shop.  Right next to the tree, there was a whimsical Asian face posted above the street signs. (Look closely at the picture.)  We also saw what appeared to be a frog on another traffic sign.

The frog on the sign was spotted near the Painted Bride Art Center, a space that has long supported innovative and non-mainstream art.  (It will be the subject of a future blog as I was there yesterday and attended a moving exhibit.) The building itself is a eye-catching mosaic done by Philadelphia eccentric and documentary subject Isaiah Zagar.

We finished the day by walking back to the subway and passing through Elfreth's Alley.  This alley, known as "our nation's oldest residential street," has houses on it built from 1728 -1836.  It was so charming with cornstalks, gourds, and pumpkins adding color to the already colorful doors and flags.



It was great to spend some time in my fair city today. It made me want to move into Philadelphia from the 'burbs.  Similar to my experience when I lived in Manhattan, it made me feel alive.  There's always something to discover or rediscover.  For example, how did I not know about the Underground Museum at Franklin Court?!?  I didn't go into the museum but, at street level, I could peer down into the foundation of Ben Franklin's house.  I had been by the buildings at 3rd and Market dozens of time but I had know idea what was behind them.  There's even a "ghost framed" house (metal outlining the shape of Ben's two-story house) back there!  I promised myself to visit the museum some day when, once again, I wander the streets of Philadelphia.

Elfreth's Alley