Tuesday, April 6, 2010

Coney Island

A 50-minute subway ride took me from Midtown Manhattan to Coney Island, Brooklyn.  While Coney Island is unlike most "shores" I know, it still had the same impact on me.  I could feel the cool air coming off the ocean, "the boards" rattled when I walked on them, I could smell salt, and the sun was bright and warm.  Vendors were selling funnel cakes, hot dogs, pizza, ice cream, cotton candy, and other things I didn't recognize - like mozzarella cheese and peas (I think) combination.  Men and women were working on their tans and children shrieked and giggled as they ran knee-deep into the water.  Seagulls flew overhead, and in some cases they warmed themselves on the beach, which was a coarser, tanner sand that I'm used to seeing.

Coney Island is the westernmost of the barrier islands of Long Island.  According to Wikipedia, Coney Island is no longer an island, it's a peninsula.  The Coney Island Creek separated the island from mainland Brooklyn but the creek was filled in before WWII for construction of the Beltway Parkway.

Coney Island is from a Dutch name meaning Rabbit Island.  (There are other theories on the name but this is the most widely accepted.)  Rabbit hunting occurred on this and other parts of Long Island for years.  Coney Island became a resort community after the Civil War and its heyday was in the early 20th century.  Interesting, (again, according to Wikipedia),
From 1885 to 1896, the Coney Island Elephant was the first sight to greet immigrants arriving in New York, who would see it before they saw the Statue of Liberty.
I didn't know of this elephant, which was a hotel, before today but I saw pictures of it on t-shirts and postcard replicas.  It reminds me of Lucy the Elephant at the Jersey Shore.










Wikipedia also states that

Nathan's Famous original hot dog stand opened on Coney Island in 1916 and quickly became a landmark. An annual hot dog eating contest has been held there on July 4 since its opening.

The first thing I saw when I exited the subway station was Nathan's.  It was noon and I was in my perpetual state of hunger.  I was surprised to see that I could get an order of frogs legs but I settled for a hot dog with just a little 'kraut and some mustard.  I think this might have been my first Nathan's dog.  (There are Nathan's at rest stops along the NJ Turnpike.  I don't think I ever had one there but I'm not 100% sure.)  In any case, the skin is a little crunchy, which is unusual for my dogs, but it was good.

I loved the old, neon signs.  With those and all the other signs, there is no doubt where Nathan's is.  
The current reigning male, Joey Chestunut, is a Philly boy.  (I'm uncertain whether that's good or bad.)
The housing right on the boardwalk looked to be low-income - not too common for most shore communities.  (I verified this income assumption from census information on Wikipedia.)  Fortunately, these residents benefit from the cool breezes from the ocean in the summer.  A luxury most urban, low-income folks don't have.

The people-watching was great.  There is a large Russian community so I saw lots of Russian folks sitting on the benches chatting with each other.  I saw shirtless, old men working on their tans.  I got to witness some great handball games.  These guys were serious, and good!  Man!  That ball flew fast!  Most of the men wore gloves but there were a few exceptions.  There are about 11 handball courts right near the boardwalk.  I'd heard of handball before but it's certainly not something played from where I come from.  I enjoyed watching the men interact with each other, trash-talk, and just have a good time.
Speaking of people-watching, I followed this lady down the boards for a little bit.  She was adorable with her droopy socks, bright sweater, and relaxed swagger.  I wondered if she was reminiscing about "things that were" on the boardwalk.  One of the "things that was" is right in front of her in this picture. 

The Parachute Jump is from the 1939 World's Fair in Queens, NY.  The "ride" was used up until 1968.  People were somehow hoisted to the top and then "free fell" with a parachute easing their landing.  This structure is sometimes referred to as the Eiffel Tower of Brooklyn.

The Cyclone is another famous Coney Island landmark.  It was placed on the National Register of Historic Places on June 26, 1991.  Opened in June 1927, this wooden rollercoaster was operating today and it was a thrill to hear the clickety-clack.  I'm not even a huge rollercoaster fan (as evidenced by the fact I didn't get on it, but I did contemplate it) but I have certainly heard of the Cyclone. 

According to a coneyislandcylcone.com,
This historic roller coaster graces virtually every "top roller coaster" list and publication. Roller coasters may have gotten bigger and faster, but they have not gotten any better than The Cyclone. Time Magazine quoted Charles Lindbergh as saying that a ride on the Cyclone was more thrilling than his historic first solo flight across the Atlantic Ocean. Emilio Franco, a mute since birth, regained his voice on the Cyclone, uttering his first words ever -- "I feel sick"!
I was hoping to learn more about the rollercoaster and other Coney Island history but the small Coney Island Museum was closed.  Apparently it is only open on weekends.

I did get on the beach, where I was pleased to find some sea glass, one of which is a nice aquamarine color. There is actually a lot of glass but much of it needs to be worn by the sand and sea to be good sea glass. 

I also spotted four cute little kids playing in the surf.  They all had little hats on.  I was disappointed that, unbeknowst to me, my camera was on zoom.  I thought I captured all four children but "lost" one.

After spending about 2.5 hours on Coney Island, I decided to head back to Manhattan.  As I left, I took a few more pictures, including a now-defunct venue...another "thing that was."

I left "Coney Peninsula," glad that I had seen it after decades of only hearing about it.

















 A "Thing that Was"

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