The Old as Part of the New

Do you ever walk by something frequently and quietly admire it?  Or maybe wonder about it?  I did the former often when I got off the commuter train at Philadelphia's University City station.  I walked past the relatively new, 300 million dollar Perelman Center - affiliated with the Hospital of the University of Pennsylvania - and always noticed the "old" in with the "new."  On Friday, after months and months of planning to do it, I took some pictures.

The Perelman Center for Advanced Medicine, which opened in 2008, is at 34th and Civic Center Boulevard in West Philadelphia.  There is no longer a Civic Center on Civic Center Boulevard because the Perelman Center - and a big gaping hole that will eventually be filled with at least one more medical building - occupies the site of the former Civic Center.  There was, however, a building that preceded the Civic Center on that site.  Probably one that the majority of Philadelphians don't know about.

In the late 1890's, University of Pennsylvania Botany Professor William Wilson "imagined creating a permanent world's fair exhibition in Philadelphia," according to the Perelman Center web site.  He arranged for world fair artifacts to come to Philadelphia to be part of his Philadelphia Commercial Museum.  These artifacts came from the 1893 Columbian Exposition in Chicago, the 1904 Louisiana Purchase Exposition in Saint Louis and fairs from around the world.

Wilson's museum served "as a school for American Businessmen" where they could learn about world markets.  Starting in the 1920's, because of the growth of the US Commerce Department, the forming of business schools - such as Wharton - at American colleges, and a general loss of interest in world's fairs, Philadelphia official began to look for other uses for the Commercial Museum site.  This change begat the Civic Center.

Again, according to the Perelman Center web site,

The Municipal Auditorium, finished in 1930, was the centerpiece of the new convention center. It was a splendid example of Art Deco design. The Municipal Auditorium played host to a number of important political events. In 1948 all three major political parties – Democratic, Republican and Progressive – held their conventions in the Municipal Auditorium. 

This convergence on a city for their political conventions does not happen today.  According to Smithsonian Magazine, it happened in 1948 in Philadelphia because

The city was at the center point of the Boston to Richmond coaxial cable, then the main carrier of live television in the United States. By 1948, as many as ten million people from Boston to Richmond could watch the tumultuous process by which the major parties selected their candidates.

Harry Truman Delivering his Speech in Sweltering Heat
in his White Linen Suit

In 1948, Thomas Dewey was the Republican Candidate and Harry Truman the Democratic one - and the underdog.  While viewers got to watch the parties' nomination proceedings, they also got to see the faces of famous journalists only known, up to that point, by their voices.  Perhaps the best example of this was Edward R. Murrow.

It wasn't Dewey, Truman, or Murrow, however, that I thought about when I passed the Civic Center on my train in 2004 - 2005 as it was being demolished.  I was thinking about FDR.

I had heard somewhere along the line that FDR had accepted his party's nomination for his re-election in 1936.  (When I fact checked this, I learned that occurred on June 27th of that year.)  I thought about this larger-than-life man as I sadly watched the Civic Center's demise Monday through Friday for months.  It was a slow death, and it pained me even though I never stepped foot in the building. (I suppose I just have a reverence for history and don't believe that new is always better than old.)

I really thought of FDR when the demolition got to the point where I could see inside the Civic Center and I caught views of the stadium-style seating.  I pictured a president trying to save a nation from falling off the precipice.  I wondered if he was able to hide his disability in front of all of those people, as he seemingly desired to do so as not to appear weak. 

I also wondered about the story behind the beautiful friezes on the exterior of the building and how they would disappear when this Art Deco building crumbled. 

Some of these friezes, which Smithsonian Magazine said "celebrated American values and the history of humankind," were what I took pictures of on Friday.  Someone had enough foresight to save the friezes, as well as some Art Deco lighting, and install them on the exterior of the Perelman Center.  I am so grateful these were saved.  I have studied them in a way I could have never done when they were perched high on the Civic Center as the demolition was occurring.

It is a little strange that these pieces of the past are displayed on the side of the Perelman Center facing a parking garage.  This location, and the one-way traffic on the street, seemingly offers limited exposure to these beauties.  They are even in the "smoking section," as witnessed by the spiked cigarette disposal device seen in the bottom picture.  Oh well, at least they survived.

The storied history of the Civic Center continued well after FDR and Truman.  Wikipedia indicates that Pope John Paul II, Martin Luther King and Nelson Mandela all spoke there.  In addition, The Beatles performed there in their first U.S. concert.  President Lyndon B. Johnson also spoke there in August, 1964.

After the Spectrum was built in South Philadelphia in 1967, however, the Civic Center began to fall out of favor.  The last event held there was the 1996 Atlantic 10 Men's Basketball tournament.  The building sat vacant for almost a decade before it was razed.

I'm glad I finally stopped to photograph and eventually write about this little piece of the old mixed in with the new.  I am sure there is so much I pass every day that has an interesting story so I am reminded to be more aware and open to seeing what is hidden in plain sight.

Bodhi

Bodhi, per Wikipedia, is "both a Pāli and Sanskrit word traditionally translated as 'enlightenment,' but frequently (and more accurately) translated as 'awakening' or 'to know'." I will take the liberty with this definition and say that Bodhi Coffee is 'to know' excellent Stumptown coffee in an 'enlightened' coffee house.

A few weeks ago when I was working on a weekend I headed down to Philadelphia's Headhouse Square section near South Street.  I didn't know until today that Headhouse Square has been a National Historic Landmark since 1966.  About 200 years prior to that, sheds were erected in 1745 in this area to allow merchants and consumers to meet.  About 55 years later, headhouses, which are fire engine houses, were built on the ends of the rows of sheds.  I learned that "each headhouse had alarm bells and a second-floor fireman's social club." 

Headhouse circa 1960's

Headhouse Today

This charming area is still lined with cobble stones and a market occurs between the headhouses.  You can get your history, your veggies and other wares, and a cup of joe in this great location for Bodhi Coffee. 

The reason I sought out Bodhi Coffee is because my love of Stumptown Coffee.  I haven't had any since I left New York City.  That means it's been almost 8 months.  I was way overdue.  It was a Zen moment when my chilled lips touched that hot coffee.  Goodness that I remembered immediately.  Stumptown and Philly - a beautiful combination.

When I ordered at the counter I was asked the standard, "For here or to go?"  I said, "For here."  Strangely, I was still given a paper cup with a plastic lid.  I was disappointed but not enough to mention it.

I sat in the window and watched the people walking by.  I also watched the people sitting at the two little tables outside.  They were bundled up against the cold but enjoying the late Fall sun.  I read a little bit of the complimentary Sunday newspaper and soaked in the warmth.

When it was time to go I couldn't find the trash can.  When I asked at the counter, I was told they have their own compost and they would take care of it.  I was very appreciative of that answer!  Glad they are trying to make a difference.  Too bad, I thought, they didn't give me a cup they could just wash.

If I lived in the area of Headhouse Square/Society Hill I would be a regular at Bodhi Coffee.  Alas, I'm not a resident of the area.  But I will certainly visit the coffee house whenever I am in the area...or go a little out of my way even if I am not.

According, again, to Wikipedia,

In early Buddhism, bodhi carried a meaning synonymous to nirvana, using only some different metaphors to describe the experience, which implied the extinction of raga (greed)...

The moment I had at Bodhi Coffee - my long sought Stumptown Coffee in a great, "aware" location - was a piece of nirvana.  Even though it is a business, it seems Bodhi Coffee is the antithesis of greed.  I hope it does well as it is watched by the headhouses.



Information regarding Headhouse Square from http://www.ushistory.org/tour/headhouse.htm

50 by 50

This started out as 50 by 30.  That was a lifetime ago, or so it feels.  Now, my goal is to visit all 50 U.S. states by age 50.  I'm very close - only four states to go - and I have three years and a few months to achieve that.  A very attainable goal. 

I had covered a lot of ground (and air miles) in my quest for 50 by 30.  I believe I got more than half the states "in" by then.  As happens to many of us when we age, I became less "foot-loose and fancy-free" (that saying surely just aged me) and generally took on more responsibilities.

I guess I'm thinking about this quest again because my wandering has slowed so considerably, particularly in the last few years.  I think I need to think about roaming to keep me inspired in some way.  So, here I am on Thanksgiving Eve thinking about where I've been.  (And I am thankful for those travels.)  In order for me to "count" a state in this quest, I had to have set foot in it outside an airport.  In other words, I've been in the Fargo, ND airport but I don't count ND in my list of states because I never left the airport. 

Here are some highlights of where I've been or, in four cases, where I hope to go.  The number at the end of each entry represents an approximate number of times I've been to the state.  It's approximate only as well as my memory serves me.

1. Alabama - Birmingham (Civil Rights Institute, Sixteenth Street Baptist Church), a party in some rural town outside Birmingham, and the Kentuck (Outsider Art) Festival in Northport. (3)
2. Alaska - Anchorage, Seward, Fairbanks, Denali National Park (1)
3. Arizona - Phoenix, Scottsdale, Grand Canyon National Park a few times, Tuscon, Sedona a few times (5 or 6)
4. Arkansas - This state "squeaks in."  I drove across the Mississippi River from Memphis, passed the "Welcome to Arkansas" sign, got out of the car, stood there for second, and turned around and went back to Tennessee.  I will eventually head to Little Rock and the Clinton Library.  Would also like to see some of the Civil Rights historic sights and Hot Springs National Park. (1)
5. California - Sacramento, San Simeon (Hearst Castle), Oakland, San Fran (several times), San Diego (several times), San Jose, Palo Alto, Pleasanton, some place in Western Orange County, LA and surrounding towns (several times) (10 or so)
6. Colorado - Southern part of the state on a train ride (we got off the train!) from New Mexico.  Still want to visit Boulder, Vail, and Rocky Mountain National Park.  (1)
7. Connecticut - Mystic Seaport, river cruise past the Gillette Castle, and many drives/related stops on the way to New England points North.  (12-ish)
8. Delaware - Many times as I live about 15-20  minutes from this state.
9. Florida - Other than the states I've lived in, this (or NY?) is my most visited.  I've been from North-South and East-West in this state.  I have not gotten too far West on the panhandle.  (30+)
10. Georgia - Savannah; also stayed in many small towns on my 20+ years of driving my grandmother North from Florida every Spring. (20+)
11. Hawaii - a non-acquired state
12. Idaho - Spent time in this state when I crossed over from Montana.  It's been almost 3 decades so don't remember a lot of specifics.  In theory, would like to get back here for a more memorable experience. (1)
13. Illinois - Moline, Chicago, Rock Island (5) 
14. Indiana - some town near Indianapolis for work; South Bend (3)
15. Iowa - Des Moines and Davenport (2)
16. Kansas - Coffeyville, where some of the Dalton Gang met their maker (1)
17. Kentucky - Richmond, home of Eastern Kentucky University; Louisville horse country; Berea, home of Berea College (4)
18. Louisiana - New Orleans several times and surrounding areas; drive through to Mississippi (5)
19. Maine - Acadia National Park (1) 
20. Maryland - Annapolis, Baltimore, Ocean City, Deep Creek Lake in the Western part of the state (15 or more) 
21. Massachusetts - Boston, lived on the island of Martha's Vineyard for three months, Cambridge (5)
22. Michigan - Grand Rapids, Saugatuck, Ann Arbor (3)
23. Minnesota - Mankato, Blue Earth (home of the Jolly Green Giant Statue), Twin Cities of Minneapolis/St. Paul, Mall of America in Bloomington, Rochester (4)
24. Mississippi - Drove through and spent the night on the way from New Orleans to Memphis 
25. Missouri - a non-acquired state
26. Montana - Dillon, Billings, Bozeman (2)
27. Nebraska - a non-acquired state  (I am planning on looking for a cheap flight here to paddle the Niobrara National Scenic River near Valentine, NE.  While in the state, I may see Carhenge - Stonehenge meets old cars - in Alliance, NE.)
28. Nevada - Reno, Las Vegas several times, Hoover Dam (twice) on shared border with AZ (5)
29. New Hampshire - Can't remember town where I stayed with a friend-of-a-friend for a few nights (1) 
30. New Jersey - Lived here for about 22 years 
31. New Mexico - Santa Fe, Taos, south of Albuquerque (4)
32. New York - Woodstock, New Paltz, Rochester, Binghamton, Buffalo, Manhattan resident for one year (30) 
33. North Carolina - Rural back road wandering, Smoky Mountains, Research Triangle area, coast near Eastern Carolina University, Charlotte, and many overnights (20+)
34. North Dakota - A non-acquired state since I've only been in the airport 
35. Ohio - Cleveland and Rock and Roll Hall of Fame, Sandusky (4) 
36. Oklahoma - Oklahoma City, Mangum and a few other towns (1)
37. Oregon - Portland, Crater Lake National Park (3)
38. Pennsylvania - Lived here for about 24 years 
39. Rhode Island -Just spent the night.  (Providence and the Newport mansions are on my list of things to do.)
40. South Carolina - Charleston, Dillon and Latta (20+)
41. South Dakota - Crazy Horse Monument and Mt. Rushmore (twice), various Black Hills towns, Badlands, Sioux Falls, Mitchell (home of the Corn Palace), Pine Ridge Indian Reservation (4)
42. Tennessee - Nashville and the Grand Old Opry, Memphis (Peabody Hotel and its famous ducks, Lorraine Hotel where Dr. MLK, Jr. lost his life) (3)
43. Texas - Corpus Christi, El Paso, San Antonio (Alamo), Dallas, Lufkin (6) 
44. Utah - Park City, Salt Lake City, Zion National Park (3) 
45. Vermont - Have been here a few times 20+ years ago.  Can't remember names of towns. (2) 
46. Virginia - Richmond, Petersburg, Luray, Skyline Drive (10)
47. Washington - Seattle (twice), Mt. St. Helen's, Mt. Ranier National Park, Tacoma (3)
48. West Virginia - Wheeling.  (I've been to this state a few times but can't think of when or why.  Probably just passing through and spending the night.) (2)
49. Wisconsin - Madison, La Crosse, Spring Green (home of Frank Lloyd Wright's Taliesen East), Wisconsin Dells (12 - 14)
50. Wyoming - Cheyenne, Jackson Hole (Grand Teton National Park), Yellowstone National Park (2)
51. Non-state Washington, D.C. - Several visits but still want more of this great city! (5)

This has proven to be exhausting.  I lost my momentum and didn't always point out key highlights.  I'm sure I will come back to update this over the next few weeks just so, years from now, I will be able to jog my memory and remember these journeys with fondness.   

For now, I have to use this list to motivate myself to finish my 50 in 50.  I also want to re-visit those handful of states where I can't remember where I visited within the state or why.  I'm ready to leave tonight but, on Thanksgiving Eve, I have to prepare to meet my responsibilities.  This night of the year, I'm OK with that.

Burgers

The place looked fun inside so we walked up to the counter, ordered, and then sat down.  The food came in record time.  But wait...the roll had blood on it...really fresh, red blood.  "Oh well," I thought, "I'll just rip it off and not eat that."  I took a few bites of the burger and showed my dining companion.  A waiter saw me doing this and came over.  I timidly mentioned that I had asked for "medium well."  He quickly took it away and promised to take care of  it.  It was a perfectly pleasant exchange.

That was my start at Bobby's Burger Palace.  Not an upsetting start, just not a smooth one.  But then the second burger came.  Yum. Wow. OMG.

I don't eat a lot of burgers but this burger was amazing.  I ordered the Napa Valley burger with goat cheese and watercress.  It was a wonderful  combination.  My burger had a nice, slightly charred and crisp outside and a juicy inside.

Bobby's Burger Palace is the child of chef and TV food personality Bobby Flay.  This West Philly location, which opened in April of this year, is one of five.  There are two locations in NJ and one each in NY and CT.  I highly recommend a visit, even if you don't eat burgers. The casual restaurant also has other sandwiches, soups and sides as well as beer, wine, and a margarita.  (While the website lists separate menus for each location, Philly's menu shows just one margarita.)  The menu items are under $10. 

If you visit the Philly location at 39th and Walnut, remember that the burgers are always prepared "medium" unless you ask otherwise.  If the burger I got was Bobby's idea of "medium," be prepared to see red...on your roll.  But know that you're getting one mighty good burger.

Shameless Thievery

I stole this from Bookpuddle, a blog I visit often and comment on occasionally.  Thanks to Cipriano at Bookpuddle for this, which really resonates with me...then and now.

 So much of a child's life is lived for others… All the reading I did as a child, behind closed doors, sitting on the bed while the darkness fell around me, was an act of reclamation. This and only this I did for myself. This was the way to make my life my own.

Author Lynne Sharon Schwartz

The Streets of Philadelphia

Unlike the lyrics to the sad Springsteen song, today's "streets of Philadelphia" were an energy booster.  The warm weather and leaves crunching underfoot in the Old City section made the day feel light and uplifting. I've been in Old City many times but I stumbled upon things I had never seen and was amazed that I hadn't. I also revisited old favorites.

Today started with brunch at Stephen Starr's Jones.  This restaurant has been around for several years now but it was my first visit to this "Brady Brunch-esque" restaurant.  The shag carpet, 70's avocado green, and sunken living room feel evoke Mike Brady himself coming through the front door and saying "hi" to Carol after a day at the office.  We ate at the counter even though the wait was only about 10 minutes. We each had eggs.  The coffee and food were good.  I wouldn't mind coming back to try the classic meatloaf.  This, along with the mac and cheese, fits Jones' desire to provide comfort foods in a retro setting.  (Which also explains why my omelet came with tater tots instead of hash browns or home fries!)

With no particular destination in mind, my friend and I wandered down to Old City from our 7th and Chestnut brunch.  Vice President Joe Biden, PA's Governor Ed Rendell and some local politicians were speaking outside near Independence Hall.  They were gathered to make comments about the soon-to-be opened National Museum of Jewish History.  I'm not sure who drew more attention - the speakers or the hoards of Secret Service men and women, Philadelphia police, and SWAT teams on the roofs.

We walked deeper into Old City and ducked into vintage clothing stores and a store that sold wonderful African fabrics and statues.  The owner of the latter store was personable and funny.  She explained she couldn't make the purchases of the items in the store when she travelled to Africa because the men wouldn't do business with her.  Wisely, they said it was too distracting to do business with women and they would likely give in and therefore make less money.  They're certainly honest!

We spotted several interesting expressions of...well, I'm not exactly sure what.  We'll call these expressions of self.  For example, we saw that someone embedded something into the intersection.  (I'm a sucker for street art, even if I don't understand it.)  We passed a shop on 3rd Street where the owner of the store knit a sweater for the tree outside the shop.  Right next to the tree, there was a whimsical Asian face posted above the street signs. (Look closely at the picture.)  We also saw what appeared to be a frog on another traffic sign.

The frog on the sign was spotted near the Painted Bride Art Center, a space that has long supported innovative and non-mainstream art.  (It will be the subject of a future blog as I was there yesterday and attended a moving exhibit.) The building itself is a eye-catching mosaic done by Philadelphia eccentric and documentary subject Isaiah Zagar.

We finished the day by walking back to the subway and passing through Elfreth's Alley.  This alley, known as "our nation's oldest residential street," has houses on it built from 1728 -1836.  It was so charming with cornstalks, gourds, and pumpkins adding color to the already colorful doors and flags.



It was great to spend some time in my fair city today. It made me want to move into Philadelphia from the 'burbs.  Similar to my experience when I lived in Manhattan, it made me feel alive.  There's always something to discover or rediscover.  For example, how did I not know about the Underground Museum at Franklin Court?!?  I didn't go into the museum but, at street level, I could peer down into the foundation of Ben Franklin's house.  I had been by the buildings at 3rd and Market dozens of time but I had know idea what was behind them.  There's even a "ghost framed" house (metal outlining the shape of Ben's two-story house) back there!  I promised myself to visit the museum some day when, once again, I wander the streets of Philadelphia.

Elfreth's Alley

Beauty Comes Inside

I received a pleasant reminder this morning that sometimes you don't have to wander to find something that touches your heart, stirs your soul, or challenges your mind. Sometimes - if you're open to it - an experience that does any of those things will find you. It found me this morning lying in bed. My Dutch Maple and my neighbor's Red Maple painted a beautiful canvas not easily captured on film.

Batsto River - New Jersey

This was the most enjoyable kayak trip this season.  The weather was crisp and the scenery was serene.  We felt embraced on the river as it was enveloped by its banks, which were often just a few feet apart for a good part of the river.  The river had many turns and bends, making it a good way to develop paddling skills. We meandered past brush and then trees and high, sandy banks. We eventually paddled through or around tall grasses into a very wide lake. As beautiful as it was, I later read this was not even the most scenic part of the river.

Today's paddle was the lower section of the Batsto River from Quaker Bridge to Batsto Village (a National Historic Site where the Batsto Iron Works was built in 1766) in Wharton State Forest near Hammonton, NJ.  When we began our trip, the water was clear enough to see to the bottom.  Without even noticing a gradual change, it seemed that - all of a sudden - the water was that dark, "cedar water" commonly seen in the Pine Barrens.  This coffee-colored water is so dark it's impossible to see through it.

What was to be a 4-hour paddle took us about 3.5 hours, and that was with a 45-minute (or so) lunch.  The upper Batsto River paddle takes approximately 8 hours.  There are a few canoe/kayak liveries in the area that offer shuttle service for both these trips but we used Adams Canoe Rentals.  (Their website is a little outdated - with 2009 prices posted in late 2010 - but the owner was very pleasant and accommodating.) 

Adams Canoe Rentals was started by the current owner's father.  The senior Adams started the business in the 1970's as a retirement job and died shortly thereafter.  The son - now solidly middle-aged himself - is trying to keep the business going in this day-and-age of declining boy scout participation and less time spent outdoors by kids.  Mr. Adams attributed these changes, respectively, to the advent of soccer for some and video games and the Internet for others.

This was the last weekend for paddling until next Spring for several, if not all, canoe and kayak rental places, including Adams Canoe.  I look forward to paddling again when it gets warmer but I don't look forward to the crowds.  I want the river to myself and my small paddling group so that the serenity is maintained.  Mr. Adams and others in his business, on the other hand, want more people to come out to play in the water.  Since the lower Batsto River is a shorter paddle, I recommend you paddle it next Spring.  I'll take the upper Batsto to see if it is really more scenic than the lower section.  Meet you at the end and we'll compare notes.

On the Brandywine Creek - West Chester, PA

Water calms me.  The lure of it and a beautiful Fall day with not-quite-peaked foliage was a good enough reason to go kayaking.  Saturday's journey was to West Chester, PA and the Brandywine Creek.  This area is known for Andrew Wyeth and the American Revolution's Battle of the Brandywine.  It is also a place to come to get away from city life.

While often shallow, the Brandywine Creek has a few mild "ripples" (calling them Class I is a far stretch, hence "ripples") that make the journey even more fun than paddling on a canal or lake.  The Northbrook Canoe Company  (NCC) offers kayak and canoe rentals and varying length trips on the Brandywine.  At about $40 for a kayak for a 2.5 hour trip, the prices are a little steep compared to my kayak outing in Princeton (previous blog entry) a few weeks ago. 

I've kayaked probably 3 times with NCC and every time the PFDs (personal flotation devices) have had the very unpleasant smell of mildew.  While that hasn't changed, this experience was different because the hoardes of people were missing.  It was a wonder, quiet paddle late in paddling season.

Of course, paddling in the Fall has probably only one con and that is tipping into very cold water.  Even though the Brandywine is shallow, it is still possible to get drenched with a good roll.  That happened to one of us.  We had a dry bag and were prepared with extra clothes in it, but we still attempted to dry out the wet ones while we ate our lunch on the bank.

Drying Out

Even with the risk of getting wet, the outdoors holds a magic that calms the frazzled nerves and stresses of a very unhappy time at work.  Combine the outdoors with water and beautiful scenery and it is possible to release much of the tension and gather the strength to do battle yet again back in the concrete jungle.

The Dam



Meandering by Changing Leaves



Old Stone Bridge

El Rey - Philadelphia, PA

Stephen Starr, about whom I have blogged in the past, owns 15 restaurants in Philadelphia.  15 restaurants that still create a buzz for many.  After visiting yet another this past Monday, I wondered how many I have visited.  Here's the tally:

1. Alma de Cuba - no
2. Buddakan - yes
3. The Continental - no
4. El Vez - yes
5. Jones - no (But will treat myself to a slow, leisurely lunch for one there in the late winter when my work madness is over)
6. Moriomoto - no
7. Pod - yes
8. Butcher and Singer - yes
9. Tangerine - no
10. Barclay Prime - no
11. Continental - Midtown - yes
12. Parc - no
13. Pizzeria Stella - no
14. El Rey - yes
15. Granite Hill (at Philadelphia Museum of Art) - no

Looks like I've hit a third of the restaurants.  I find that many, while "cool" to visit, are much ado about generally decent but often overpriced food.  El Rey was a case-in-point.  5:30p on a Monday night and no happy hour?  I guess if you're a Stephen Starr restaurant you don't have to do that, although it was empty when I left two hours later.

El Rey (or "king") is at 20th and Market Streets in the old Midtown diner location.  Starr didn't dump a lot of money into a renovation.  Seemingly the same formica, scallop shell counter and vinyl chairs.  Bad-turned-hip kitsch as in the chandeliers, faux rock walls, and black velvet Elvis and Jimi Hendrix.  The food was El Vez-ish.  The chips and salsa were fine - not remarkable - and the ceviche was good but not the best I've had. 

Truth be told, I went to El Rey because it is a Stephen Starr restaurant.  His name obviously draws.  Otherwise this is a diner-turned-cheesy Mexican place that remains in business "just because."  Chances are, El Rey will still be around if and when Starr opens restaurant number 16 in Philadelphia.

The counter at El Rey

(Oh, and Esquire Magazine's 2010 Hostess of the Year, El Rey's

Melissa Calcagni)

Makes me Wanna Holler

Terrorists.  Jihadists.  Words and related images that make (hopefully) the vast majority of us puzzled.  We ask ourselves:  Why do these people have so much hate?  Why can't they "live and let live"?  Why are they bent on condemning and destroying innocents?  Irony of ironies, the people who are asking these questions are probably some of the same people who are putting up signs like these.

Ah...Is that supposed to be "Exceptions"?!

This makes me C-R-A-Z-E-D.  The same people who are "Woe is me, why are the 'bad' people hurting my country?" are probably the same people spreading this hate and distrust.  Granted, the levels of these negative ways are different but they emanate from the same dark place of hate and fear.

Think about it - an immigrant has to move about society before she is proficient in English.  There are trips to the grocery store, rides on public transportation or conversations with auto mechanics, meetings with teachers, interactions at the bank, and so on...the list goes on.  Each of these interactions will bring better proficiency.  Also, I know from my own family that study of English as a second language often results in non-U.S. citizens speaking more grammatically correct than many of the U.S-born people who thrive on displaying these signs.

I know; I know.  I hear you naysayers now.  "These immigrants are here for years and don't try to or can't speak English."  AND?!?!?  Haven't terrorists and jihadists shown us the danger of such generalizations?  AND?!?!?  Is any one of us perfect or without fault?  WHY DO WE HAVE TO FEEL BETTER THAN ANOTHER? 

UGH.  I'm telling you; I can't stand the mentally of the people responsible for these signs.  But I know I must tolerate them because we must give what we want to get.  This is what separates us from extremists...both those that kill bodies and those that kill dreams.

I Miss New York

Sitting here watching CBS Sunday Morning and they are doing a story about French architect's Jean Nouvel's 100.  This 100 Building is on 11th Ave in Chelsea by my much beloved Highline and the ever-cool Gehry building.  (There are previous blog entries on both the Highline and the Gehry building.)  This new building is visually interesting, with windows strategically placed to frame the best NYC views.  There is some controversy around this as it was to be (will be?) higher than the Empire State Building.  (Better pay more attention to the show and stop blogging!)

REALLY missing New York on this beautiful Fall day.

100 is the tall building

View from the Highline

White Clay Creek State Park Newark, DE

After having such a glorious outdoor day last Saturday, I had to do something outside again last Sunday. If I had the energy, I would have gotten back on the water and kayaked again. But a hike was another good option; I just didn't want to go somewhere I had already been. This led me to a brief online search for hikes in the Philadelphia area. A historic marker at one state park intrigued me so it was off to Delaware.

The drive to White Clay Creek State Park took me through the "main drag" of Newark and near the University of Delaware campus. Who knew Newark had such a cute (albeit small) downtown? It was a pleasant surprise, even if most of the businesses were chains. (The architecture often screamed "old town" so that helped alleviate the chain feel.)

The drive into the park had us paying a $6 park entrance fee ($3 for in-state visitors). I guess those low Delaware taxes mean they have to get their money other ways. I'm certainly not accustomed to that from state parks in NJ and PA.  When I am used to, and what I had read online about White Clay Creek State Park, is that many state park trails are not well marked. That was dead-on at this park.

Once in the parking lot, it was not obvious where the trail head started. (The advice from the park ranger at the gate, who didn't even know what color trail blazes we should look for, was to go "down the hill." When you're on the top of a hill, there are several ways "down the hill!") After some initial frustration we started walking. I won't go on much more about how bad our map was. Fortunately, we found someone who offered to lead us in the direction of the historic marker - the main impetus of this particular destination. (I did, for a moment, wonder if he was leading us to a secluded place to kill us. Obviously, that was not the case.)

We found the ARC Corner Stone in the woods. (Ironically, there was a road within eyesight through the trees. That was a bummer.) This stone was placed in 1892 during a U.S. Surveying trip. It

marks the DE-PA state boundary line at the intersection of the east-west southern boundary of Pennsylvania with the 12-mile Circle boundary line centered on Newcastle, DE. (waymarking.com)

This was one of 46 stones to mark the Delaware's northern boundary from PA. Interestingly, 41 of these historical stones survive today.

This 12-mile circle boundary (described in waymarking.com as a 22.57-mile compound circle - huh?) is a little confusing because of the shapes of the states. (Maryland is just a stone's throw away here, too.) The best way to understand it is to view this image.

Notice the arc where DE and PA meet? This arc is what the previously 46 and now 41 approximately 4.5 feet tall monuments mark. The names of the various people on the survey teams are on the monument on the side representing their respective states. From here we feared being lost but we wanted to find our way down to the White Clay Creek. In doing so, we hiked part of the Mason Dixon Trail (MDT).

I had never heard of the MDT before so I was excited to learn more about it when I returned from the hike. Unlike the other trails in White Clay Creek State Park, this one was well marked. It is a 193-mile trail starting in Whiskey Springs (Cumberland County), PA and heads east, meandering through MD and DE until it ends in Chadds Ford, PA. Hiking it seems like a much more attainable goal than the mother of all trails here in the U.S. - the AT or Appalachian Trail.

The piece of the MDT we hiked took us to an old rails-to-trails section that paralleled the creek so we followed it. Again, we were filled with trepidation that we would never find our way back to the car so that meant the hike wasn't completely relaxed. We knew we wouldn't get lost on the trail following the creek, however, and we were joined by bikers and walkers. Several of the walkers were very elderly.

We stopped on a bench by the creek and had our lunch. Shortly we were joined by a couple in their late 80's (he was 88) who were out for a stroll. (God bless them!) We had a pleasant conversation. When they left, we talked about the other lady we had passed on the walk. She seemed to be ancient and was very bent over. But with her cane and her binoculars, she was set to enjoy the day. We greeted each other with a "hello" and smile as we passed. On the way back we saw her again; she was speaking to a park ranger.

We found our way back to our car with surprising, relative ease and therefore didn't have to start a camp fire, head back to a road, cannibalize the other, or do any of the other emergency actions we (half) joked about taking. As we left the park we drove a different way than we had come and drove by the park nature center. Lo and behold, there was a plaque there and guess whose picture was on it? The "bent over" elderly lady! Turns out she is a local celebrity that the plaque encouraged us to "stop and say thank you."

Dorothy Miller is an avid birdwatcher who took action when the area around the White Clay Creek was threatened. Because of her considerable efforts and leadership, the creek was not dammed and the area was preserved. I could tell just by the way she was talking to the park ranger that Ms. Miller is a real firecracker! It was serendipitous to run ever-so-briefly into a woman who made such a difference in her community. I love the spirit she represents.

You can see some of the spirit Ms. Miller's eyes and smile as seen in this picture that I found on the Delaware Audubon website. Notice she has her birding binoculars around her neck? And, with all due respect, this picture is probably 10 - 15 years old. She's more stooped over now but she still has a fast smile today!

A desire to get outside and an interest in seeing a historical marker helped me to encounter a woman who is a historical Delaware figure in her own right. During this day I also learned of a hiking trail that is practically in my own backyard. My moments of serendipity were plenty this weekend.  For that, I am very grateful.

Musings

Why is it that Pennsylvania is referred to as "P-A" (that is "pee - ay")?  I find myself saying it when asked for my address.  "City and State?  Oh, it's 'my town,' P - A."  That's strange.  When I lived in New Jersey I never said "my town, N - J."  Same when I was a New York City resident; I didn't say "New York, N - Y."

Even Martha and the Vandellas sang about "P - A."  Remember the lyrics from Dancin' in the Streets?

This is an invitation

Across the nation

A chance for the folks to meet

There'll be laughin' and singin' and music swingin'

And dancin' in the streets

Philadelphia, P.A. (Philadelphia, P.A.)

Baltimore and DC now (Baltimore and DC now)

Yeah don't forget the Motor City (can't forget the Motor City)

We have all heard Washington, D.C. referred to as "D - C" as in the song.  I often say "D - C" myself.  But what is it with P-A?  Thoughts?  I'm guessing it has something to do with the fact it has a vowel on the end.  (I'm not counting the "Y" in N.Y. as a vowel in this situation.)  Maybe people from Massachusetts say I'm from "Boston, M-A" because it has a vowel on the end?  If my theory is correct than Okies do not say I'm from "Tulsa, O-K".

This is just a glimpse of where my mind wanders living here in P-A.

Cruising the Delaware-Raritan Canal

I took my nephew to a camp in Princeton this summer and I passed by Princeton Canoe and Kayak.  I made a mental note because I love being in the water and I love kayaking, even though I haven't done it in awhile.  After kayaking this gorgeous weekend, I'm hooked again.

Princeton Canoe and Kayak has very reasonable prices - $25 for a kayak all day and I believe it was $30 for a canoe.  I would imagine the summer can be very crowded on the approximately 8 feet deep Delaware and Raritan Canal, not to mention hot.  Saturday's paddle, however, was one of those perfect days where you feel lucky to have had the experience. 

Serendipitous is a way to describe the day.  I've never paddled this canal but everything fell into place.  The canal is tree-covered in many areas in such a way as one could paddle in the shade on one side or be in the sun in the other.  Both sides were helpful at various times.  The water was very cool so it was a pleasure to see so many turtles warming themselves on the logs.  I was also able to see the Great Blue Heron that is apparently a frequent guest on the canal's edge.  We passed him silently - maybe 20 feet away - and he watched us.  After we passed, I turned back to see him flying toward us.  He landed in front of us, as if he wanted to watch us and our bright red kayaks again.  What a sight when he flew low on the water.

The silence was a treat, too.  At one point, the silence was broken by church hymns performed on what I think must have been a trumpet.  I recognized both songs from years of church as a youth.  I love hymns, and I love nature and the water - the combination of all 3 made me smile and few really lucky to have those moments.  It may sound cliche but I will remember how I felt and why I felt that way in that moment for the rest of my life.

We spent about 3 hours paddling, with a break for a picnic lunch. Those 3 hours were spent observing, hearing, and letting our minds go to places other than work.  We watched others bike or walk along the canal's edge.  We also passed a golf course and could hear the swoosh of the club and the "clink" of the club on the ball as one hole was close to the water.  For the most part, though, we were out of civilization and I pretended to be a Native American in my mind and wondered what they thought of when they were on new waterways and heard nothing but the trees rustling, the birds singing, and the occasional geese chattering as the humans floated by.  (I got that the Indians weren't on a canal!  It was just a fantasy!)

After leaving the water we took the 10-minute drive to Nassau Street in Princeton.  I heard someone mention it was a Princeton U. football game weekend and the crowds made me believe I heard correctly.  The campus is large but part of it borders Nassau Street.  We walked around for a little bit but were ravenous so we stopped at PJ's Pancake House to have the burger advertised as "the best" since 1962.  It's easy to picture a bunch of college kids at a place like PJ's.  (Apparently writing on the table in pen is acceptable.)  The place had a "down and dirty" feel, even if the restroom was spotless.  Even though our waiter had horrific body odor, the burger and fries were just what we needed after burning those calories paddling.  (The PB and J picnic didn't go too far!)

I would recommend this day's itinerary to anyone.  Princeton is not too far a drive (about an hour) from Philadelphia and many other areas.  You can kayak (or bike) the Delaware and Raritan Canal and still have other options - either roaming Princeton University's beautiful and historic campus or the college town - once you're done.  This day so inspired me that I'm already planning another paddling day for next Saturday.  I am hooked again.

Gnocchi Restaurant

This past Tuesday night was a friend's birthday so that meant dinner out.  We headed to 3rd and Passyunk (just near South Street as Passyunk runs diagonally) and went to her choice - Gnocchi.  Of course, when in Gnocchi, I ate gnocchis.  (Does one pluralize this word?  Does a person eat gnocchi or gnocchis?)

The restaurant has been around for awhile and my friend had been there before for the "best gnocchis (she's) ever had."  They were good; apparently they're homemade daily.  Mine came with a light red sauce and beets.  May sound strange but it was very good.  Each gnocchi was small and had good texture.

Gnocchi doesn't seem to have its own website.  I know that because I wanted to check out the menu before we went but I couldn't find the restaurant's site so I had to use menupages.com.  I also read some reviews on yelp.com.  There were definitely some unfavorable ones.  Several concerns were regarding various aspects of service.  My party and a party of two were the only patrons during the time we ordered.  The meals took extraordinarily long to come out.  I can't imagine what it would be like on a Saturday night, unless the kitchen has a lot more help.

I recommend Gnocchi if you're in the Queen Village section of Philly.  Of course, try the gnocchis...on a weeknight.

R2L

Maybe it stands for Restaurant - 2 Liberty?  Not sure.  All I know is that this bar/restaurant is on the 37th floor of 2 Liberty Place in Center City Philadelphia.  It's been two weeks since I went to R2L for happy hour.  Since it took me two weeks to blog about it, it's obvious my work has almost completely consumed me.  That is why sneaking out for a work happy hour on a Thursday night two weeks ago was a real treat.

R2L - my pick after having read about it - is glossy and shiny and hip.  Perhaps a bit too "see and be seen here" hip.  Although, I confess I went to see also, but not so much the people.  I wanted to see the view.  And what a view it was.

Years ago it was possible to have drinks and dinner at the Top of Centre (not a typo) Square in Philadelphia (by the clothespin for those who know Philly).  Cable giant Comcast took over that space for offices, I believe, so the view from Centre Square has been long gone.  I really anticipated seeing such a view again.  Since I got to R2L around 5:45, I got to see the sunset.  It was beautiful.  Before that, I got to peer into Franklin Field in West Philly, noticed rooftop pools, saw planes seemingly hanging in mid-air as they floated above the airport, and generally got a view of the Philadelphia skyline that I don't see often.  I would go back to R2L just for that.

The food and drinks were reasonable.  The bar snacks were $6, beer bottles were $3, and wine by the glass was $6.  Truly less expensive than I imagined for this space.  (This happy hour deal is Monday - Thursday from 4:30 - 6:30.)  I shared a few appetizers with my colleagues but the most memorable was the rabbit tacquitos.  The flavor was not a "wow!" flavor but I appreciated the attempt to do something different.

R2L is Chef Daniel Stern's labor of love.  I couldn't remember where I had heard that name before and I googled him.  Turns out he was the chef at Gayle (3rd and South Streets), which closed in September 2009.  Stern now is now at Midatlantic (37th and Market Streets) in West Philadelphia as well as at R2L.

Whether you go with a special someone or a group of friends, or even by yourself after a trying day, go to R2L and soak in the view.  It won't break your budget and, at least for awhile, it will take your mind off anything that may be consuming you.