Batsto River - New Jersey

This was the most enjoyable kayak trip this season.  The weather was crisp and the scenery was serene.  We felt embraced on the river as it was enveloped by its banks, which were often just a few feet apart for a good part of the river.  The river had many turns and bends, making it a good way to develop paddling skills. We meandered past brush and then trees and high, sandy banks. We eventually paddled through or around tall grasses into a very wide lake. As beautiful as it was, I later read this was not even the most scenic part of the river.

Today's paddle was the lower section of the Batsto River from Quaker Bridge to Batsto Village (a National Historic Site where the Batsto Iron Works was built in 1766) in Wharton State Forest near Hammonton, NJ.  When we began our trip, the water was clear enough to see to the bottom.  Without even noticing a gradual change, it seemed that - all of a sudden - the water was that dark, "cedar water" commonly seen in the Pine Barrens.  This coffee-colored water is so dark it's impossible to see through it.

What was to be a 4-hour paddle took us about 3.5 hours, and that was with a 45-minute (or so) lunch.  The upper Batsto River paddle takes approximately 8 hours.  There are a few canoe/kayak liveries in the area that offer shuttle service for both these trips but we used Adams Canoe Rentals.  (Their website is a little outdated - with 2009 prices posted in late 2010 - but the owner was very pleasant and accommodating.) 

Adams Canoe Rentals was started by the current owner's father.  The senior Adams started the business in the 1970's as a retirement job and died shortly thereafter.  The son - now solidly middle-aged himself - is trying to keep the business going in this day-and-age of declining boy scout participation and less time spent outdoors by kids.  Mr. Adams attributed these changes, respectively, to the advent of soccer for some and video games and the Internet for others.

This was the last weekend for paddling until next Spring for several, if not all, canoe and kayak rental places, including Adams Canoe.  I look forward to paddling again when it gets warmer but I don't look forward to the crowds.  I want the river to myself and my small paddling group so that the serenity is maintained.  Mr. Adams and others in his business, on the other hand, want more people to come out to play in the water.  Since the lower Batsto River is a shorter paddle, I recommend you paddle it next Spring.  I'll take the upper Batsto to see if it is really more scenic than the lower section.  Meet you at the end and we'll compare notes.

On the Brandywine Creek - West Chester, PA

Water calms me.  The lure of it and a beautiful Fall day with not-quite-peaked foliage was a good enough reason to go kayaking.  Saturday's journey was to West Chester, PA and the Brandywine Creek.  This area is known for Andrew Wyeth and the American Revolution's Battle of the Brandywine.  It is also a place to come to get away from city life.

While often shallow, the Brandywine Creek has a few mild "ripples" (calling them Class I is a far stretch, hence "ripples") that make the journey even more fun than paddling on a canal or lake.  The Northbrook Canoe Company  (NCC) offers kayak and canoe rentals and varying length trips on the Brandywine.  At about $40 for a kayak for a 2.5 hour trip, the prices are a little steep compared to my kayak outing in Princeton (previous blog entry) a few weeks ago. 

I've kayaked probably 3 times with NCC and every time the PFDs (personal flotation devices) have had the very unpleasant smell of mildew.  While that hasn't changed, this experience was different because the hoardes of people were missing.  It was a wonder, quiet paddle late in paddling season.

Of course, paddling in the Fall has probably only one con and that is tipping into very cold water.  Even though the Brandywine is shallow, it is still possible to get drenched with a good roll.  That happened to one of us.  We had a dry bag and were prepared with extra clothes in it, but we still attempted to dry out the wet ones while we ate our lunch on the bank.

Drying Out

Even with the risk of getting wet, the outdoors holds a magic that calms the frazzled nerves and stresses of a very unhappy time at work.  Combine the outdoors with water and beautiful scenery and it is possible to release much of the tension and gather the strength to do battle yet again back in the concrete jungle.

The Dam



Meandering by Changing Leaves



Old Stone Bridge

El Rey - Philadelphia, PA

Stephen Starr, about whom I have blogged in the past, owns 15 restaurants in Philadelphia.  15 restaurants that still create a buzz for many.  After visiting yet another this past Monday, I wondered how many I have visited.  Here's the tally:

1. Alma de Cuba - no
2. Buddakan - yes
3. The Continental - no
4. El Vez - yes
5. Jones - no (But will treat myself to a slow, leisurely lunch for one there in the late winter when my work madness is over)
6. Moriomoto - no
7. Pod - yes
8. Butcher and Singer - yes
9. Tangerine - no
10. Barclay Prime - no
11. Continental - Midtown - yes
12. Parc - no
13. Pizzeria Stella - no
14. El Rey - yes
15. Granite Hill (at Philadelphia Museum of Art) - no

Looks like I've hit a third of the restaurants.  I find that many, while "cool" to visit, are much ado about generally decent but often overpriced food.  El Rey was a case-in-point.  5:30p on a Monday night and no happy hour?  I guess if you're a Stephen Starr restaurant you don't have to do that, although it was empty when I left two hours later.

El Rey (or "king") is at 20th and Market Streets in the old Midtown diner location.  Starr didn't dump a lot of money into a renovation.  Seemingly the same formica, scallop shell counter and vinyl chairs.  Bad-turned-hip kitsch as in the chandeliers, faux rock walls, and black velvet Elvis and Jimi Hendrix.  The food was El Vez-ish.  The chips and salsa were fine - not remarkable - and the ceviche was good but not the best I've had. 

Truth be told, I went to El Rey because it is a Stephen Starr restaurant.  His name obviously draws.  Otherwise this is a diner-turned-cheesy Mexican place that remains in business "just because."  Chances are, El Rey will still be around if and when Starr opens restaurant number 16 in Philadelphia.

The counter at El Rey

(Oh, and Esquire Magazine's 2010 Hostess of the Year, El Rey's

Melissa Calcagni)

Makes me Wanna Holler

Terrorists.  Jihadists.  Words and related images that make (hopefully) the vast majority of us puzzled.  We ask ourselves:  Why do these people have so much hate?  Why can't they "live and let live"?  Why are they bent on condemning and destroying innocents?  Irony of ironies, the people who are asking these questions are probably some of the same people who are putting up signs like these.

Ah...Is that supposed to be "Exceptions"?!

This makes me C-R-A-Z-E-D.  The same people who are "Woe is me, why are the 'bad' people hurting my country?" are probably the same people spreading this hate and distrust.  Granted, the levels of these negative ways are different but they emanate from the same dark place of hate and fear.

Think about it - an immigrant has to move about society before she is proficient in English.  There are trips to the grocery store, rides on public transportation or conversations with auto mechanics, meetings with teachers, interactions at the bank, and so on...the list goes on.  Each of these interactions will bring better proficiency.  Also, I know from my own family that study of English as a second language often results in non-U.S. citizens speaking more grammatically correct than many of the U.S-born people who thrive on displaying these signs.

I know; I know.  I hear you naysayers now.  "These immigrants are here for years and don't try to or can't speak English."  AND?!?!?  Haven't terrorists and jihadists shown us the danger of such generalizations?  AND?!?!?  Is any one of us perfect or without fault?  WHY DO WE HAVE TO FEEL BETTER THAN ANOTHER? 

UGH.  I'm telling you; I can't stand the mentally of the people responsible for these signs.  But I know I must tolerate them because we must give what we want to get.  This is what separates us from extremists...both those that kill bodies and those that kill dreams.

I Miss New York

Sitting here watching CBS Sunday Morning and they are doing a story about French architect's Jean Nouvel's 100.  This 100 Building is on 11th Ave in Chelsea by my much beloved Highline and the ever-cool Gehry building.  (There are previous blog entries on both the Highline and the Gehry building.)  This new building is visually interesting, with windows strategically placed to frame the best NYC views.  There is some controversy around this as it was to be (will be?) higher than the Empire State Building.  (Better pay more attention to the show and stop blogging!)

REALLY missing New York on this beautiful Fall day.

100 is the tall building

View from the Highline

White Clay Creek State Park Newark, DE

After having such a glorious outdoor day last Saturday, I had to do something outside again last Sunday. If I had the energy, I would have gotten back on the water and kayaked again. But a hike was another good option; I just didn't want to go somewhere I had already been. This led me to a brief online search for hikes in the Philadelphia area. A historic marker at one state park intrigued me so it was off to Delaware.

The drive to White Clay Creek State Park took me through the "main drag" of Newark and near the University of Delaware campus. Who knew Newark had such a cute (albeit small) downtown? It was a pleasant surprise, even if most of the businesses were chains. (The architecture often screamed "old town" so that helped alleviate the chain feel.)

The drive into the park had us paying a $6 park entrance fee ($3 for in-state visitors). I guess those low Delaware taxes mean they have to get their money other ways. I'm certainly not accustomed to that from state parks in NJ and PA.  When I am used to, and what I had read online about White Clay Creek State Park, is that many state park trails are not well marked. That was dead-on at this park.

Once in the parking lot, it was not obvious where the trail head started. (The advice from the park ranger at the gate, who didn't even know what color trail blazes we should look for, was to go "down the hill." When you're on the top of a hill, there are several ways "down the hill!") After some initial frustration we started walking. I won't go on much more about how bad our map was. Fortunately, we found someone who offered to lead us in the direction of the historic marker - the main impetus of this particular destination. (I did, for a moment, wonder if he was leading us to a secluded place to kill us. Obviously, that was not the case.)

We found the ARC Corner Stone in the woods. (Ironically, there was a road within eyesight through the trees. That was a bummer.) This stone was placed in 1892 during a U.S. Surveying trip. It

marks the DE-PA state boundary line at the intersection of the east-west southern boundary of Pennsylvania with the 12-mile Circle boundary line centered on Newcastle, DE. (waymarking.com)

This was one of 46 stones to mark the Delaware's northern boundary from PA. Interestingly, 41 of these historical stones survive today.

This 12-mile circle boundary (described in waymarking.com as a 22.57-mile compound circle - huh?) is a little confusing because of the shapes of the states. (Maryland is just a stone's throw away here, too.) The best way to understand it is to view this image.

Notice the arc where DE and PA meet? This arc is what the previously 46 and now 41 approximately 4.5 feet tall monuments mark. The names of the various people on the survey teams are on the monument on the side representing their respective states. From here we feared being lost but we wanted to find our way down to the White Clay Creek. In doing so, we hiked part of the Mason Dixon Trail (MDT).

I had never heard of the MDT before so I was excited to learn more about it when I returned from the hike. Unlike the other trails in White Clay Creek State Park, this one was well marked. It is a 193-mile trail starting in Whiskey Springs (Cumberland County), PA and heads east, meandering through MD and DE until it ends in Chadds Ford, PA. Hiking it seems like a much more attainable goal than the mother of all trails here in the U.S. - the AT or Appalachian Trail.

The piece of the MDT we hiked took us to an old rails-to-trails section that paralleled the creek so we followed it. Again, we were filled with trepidation that we would never find our way back to the car so that meant the hike wasn't completely relaxed. We knew we wouldn't get lost on the trail following the creek, however, and we were joined by bikers and walkers. Several of the walkers were very elderly.

We stopped on a bench by the creek and had our lunch. Shortly we were joined by a couple in their late 80's (he was 88) who were out for a stroll. (God bless them!) We had a pleasant conversation. When they left, we talked about the other lady we had passed on the walk. She seemed to be ancient and was very bent over. But with her cane and her binoculars, she was set to enjoy the day. We greeted each other with a "hello" and smile as we passed. On the way back we saw her again; she was speaking to a park ranger.

We found our way back to our car with surprising, relative ease and therefore didn't have to start a camp fire, head back to a road, cannibalize the other, or do any of the other emergency actions we (half) joked about taking. As we left the park we drove a different way than we had come and drove by the park nature center. Lo and behold, there was a plaque there and guess whose picture was on it? The "bent over" elderly lady! Turns out she is a local celebrity that the plaque encouraged us to "stop and say thank you."

Dorothy Miller is an avid birdwatcher who took action when the area around the White Clay Creek was threatened. Because of her considerable efforts and leadership, the creek was not dammed and the area was preserved. I could tell just by the way she was talking to the park ranger that Ms. Miller is a real firecracker! It was serendipitous to run ever-so-briefly into a woman who made such a difference in her community. I love the spirit she represents.

You can see some of the spirit Ms. Miller's eyes and smile as seen in this picture that I found on the Delaware Audubon website. Notice she has her birding binoculars around her neck? And, with all due respect, this picture is probably 10 - 15 years old. She's more stooped over now but she still has a fast smile today!

A desire to get outside and an interest in seeing a historical marker helped me to encounter a woman who is a historical Delaware figure in her own right. During this day I also learned of a hiking trail that is practically in my own backyard. My moments of serendipity were plenty this weekend.  For that, I am very grateful.

Musings

Why is it that Pennsylvania is referred to as "P-A" (that is "pee - ay")?  I find myself saying it when asked for my address.  "City and State?  Oh, it's 'my town,' P - A."  That's strange.  When I lived in New Jersey I never said "my town, N - J."  Same when I was a New York City resident; I didn't say "New York, N - Y."

Even Martha and the Vandellas sang about "P - A."  Remember the lyrics from Dancin' in the Streets?

This is an invitation

Across the nation

A chance for the folks to meet

There'll be laughin' and singin' and music swingin'

And dancin' in the streets

Philadelphia, P.A. (Philadelphia, P.A.)

Baltimore and DC now (Baltimore and DC now)

Yeah don't forget the Motor City (can't forget the Motor City)

We have all heard Washington, D.C. referred to as "D - C" as in the song.  I often say "D - C" myself.  But what is it with P-A?  Thoughts?  I'm guessing it has something to do with the fact it has a vowel on the end.  (I'm not counting the "Y" in N.Y. as a vowel in this situation.)  Maybe people from Massachusetts say I'm from "Boston, M-A" because it has a vowel on the end?  If my theory is correct than Okies do not say I'm from "Tulsa, O-K".

This is just a glimpse of where my mind wanders living here in P-A.

Cruising the Delaware-Raritan Canal

I took my nephew to a camp in Princeton this summer and I passed by Princeton Canoe and Kayak.  I made a mental note because I love being in the water and I love kayaking, even though I haven't done it in awhile.  After kayaking this gorgeous weekend, I'm hooked again.

Princeton Canoe and Kayak has very reasonable prices - $25 for a kayak all day and I believe it was $30 for a canoe.  I would imagine the summer can be very crowded on the approximately 8 feet deep Delaware and Raritan Canal, not to mention hot.  Saturday's paddle, however, was one of those perfect days where you feel lucky to have had the experience. 

Serendipitous is a way to describe the day.  I've never paddled this canal but everything fell into place.  The canal is tree-covered in many areas in such a way as one could paddle in the shade on one side or be in the sun in the other.  Both sides were helpful at various times.  The water was very cool so it was a pleasure to see so many turtles warming themselves on the logs.  I was also able to see the Great Blue Heron that is apparently a frequent guest on the canal's edge.  We passed him silently - maybe 20 feet away - and he watched us.  After we passed, I turned back to see him flying toward us.  He landed in front of us, as if he wanted to watch us and our bright red kayaks again.  What a sight when he flew low on the water.

The silence was a treat, too.  At one point, the silence was broken by church hymns performed on what I think must have been a trumpet.  I recognized both songs from years of church as a youth.  I love hymns, and I love nature and the water - the combination of all 3 made me smile and few really lucky to have those moments.  It may sound cliche but I will remember how I felt and why I felt that way in that moment for the rest of my life.

We spent about 3 hours paddling, with a break for a picnic lunch. Those 3 hours were spent observing, hearing, and letting our minds go to places other than work.  We watched others bike or walk along the canal's edge.  We also passed a golf course and could hear the swoosh of the club and the "clink" of the club on the ball as one hole was close to the water.  For the most part, though, we were out of civilization and I pretended to be a Native American in my mind and wondered what they thought of when they were on new waterways and heard nothing but the trees rustling, the birds singing, and the occasional geese chattering as the humans floated by.  (I got that the Indians weren't on a canal!  It was just a fantasy!)

After leaving the water we took the 10-minute drive to Nassau Street in Princeton.  I heard someone mention it was a Princeton U. football game weekend and the crowds made me believe I heard correctly.  The campus is large but part of it borders Nassau Street.  We walked around for a little bit but were ravenous so we stopped at PJ's Pancake House to have the burger advertised as "the best" since 1962.  It's easy to picture a bunch of college kids at a place like PJ's.  (Apparently writing on the table in pen is acceptable.)  The place had a "down and dirty" feel, even if the restroom was spotless.  Even though our waiter had horrific body odor, the burger and fries were just what we needed after burning those calories paddling.  (The PB and J picnic didn't go too far!)

I would recommend this day's itinerary to anyone.  Princeton is not too far a drive (about an hour) from Philadelphia and many other areas.  You can kayak (or bike) the Delaware and Raritan Canal and still have other options - either roaming Princeton University's beautiful and historic campus or the college town - once you're done.  This day so inspired me that I'm already planning another paddling day for next Saturday.  I am hooked again.

Gnocchi Restaurant

This past Tuesday night was a friend's birthday so that meant dinner out.  We headed to 3rd and Passyunk (just near South Street as Passyunk runs diagonally) and went to her choice - Gnocchi.  Of course, when in Gnocchi, I ate gnocchis.  (Does one pluralize this word?  Does a person eat gnocchi or gnocchis?)

The restaurant has been around for awhile and my friend had been there before for the "best gnocchis (she's) ever had."  They were good; apparently they're homemade daily.  Mine came with a light red sauce and beets.  May sound strange but it was very good.  Each gnocchi was small and had good texture.

Gnocchi doesn't seem to have its own website.  I know that because I wanted to check out the menu before we went but I couldn't find the restaurant's site so I had to use menupages.com.  I also read some reviews on yelp.com.  There were definitely some unfavorable ones.  Several concerns were regarding various aspects of service.  My party and a party of two were the only patrons during the time we ordered.  The meals took extraordinarily long to come out.  I can't imagine what it would be like on a Saturday night, unless the kitchen has a lot more help.

I recommend Gnocchi if you're in the Queen Village section of Philly.  Of course, try the gnocchis...on a weeknight.

R2L

Maybe it stands for Restaurant - 2 Liberty?  Not sure.  All I know is that this bar/restaurant is on the 37th floor of 2 Liberty Place in Center City Philadelphia.  It's been two weeks since I went to R2L for happy hour.  Since it took me two weeks to blog about it, it's obvious my work has almost completely consumed me.  That is why sneaking out for a work happy hour on a Thursday night two weeks ago was a real treat.

R2L - my pick after having read about it - is glossy and shiny and hip.  Perhaps a bit too "see and be seen here" hip.  Although, I confess I went to see also, but not so much the people.  I wanted to see the view.  And what a view it was.

Years ago it was possible to have drinks and dinner at the Top of Centre (not a typo) Square in Philadelphia (by the clothespin for those who know Philly).  Cable giant Comcast took over that space for offices, I believe, so the view from Centre Square has been long gone.  I really anticipated seeing such a view again.  Since I got to R2L around 5:45, I got to see the sunset.  It was beautiful.  Before that, I got to peer into Franklin Field in West Philly, noticed rooftop pools, saw planes seemingly hanging in mid-air as they floated above the airport, and generally got a view of the Philadelphia skyline that I don't see often.  I would go back to R2L just for that.

The food and drinks were reasonable.  The bar snacks were $6, beer bottles were $3, and wine by the glass was $6.  Truly less expensive than I imagined for this space.  (This happy hour deal is Monday - Thursday from 4:30 - 6:30.)  I shared a few appetizers with my colleagues but the most memorable was the rabbit tacquitos.  The flavor was not a "wow!" flavor but I appreciated the attempt to do something different.

R2L is Chef Daniel Stern's labor of love.  I couldn't remember where I had heard that name before and I googled him.  Turns out he was the chef at Gayle (3rd and South Streets), which closed in September 2009.  Stern now is now at Midatlantic (37th and Market Streets) in West Philadelphia as well as at R2L.

Whether you go with a special someone or a group of friends, or even by yourself after a trying day, go to R2L and soak in the view.  It won't break your budget and, at least for awhile, it will take your mind off anything that may be consuming you.

Happy 90th Grandmom

Hope your weekend party was enjoyable for you, Liz!  I'm lucky to have you.